Handmade Hugs Society
Cowichan Valley

Subtitle

Links to pattern info and demos




Link to Delores's Pot Holder tutorial
 -- Used with permission

http://sweetp-paulette.blogspot.com/2011/06/tutorial-by-delores.html

So many possibilities!


Link to Twiddletail's
Burrito Pillowcase tutorial
-- Used with permission


http//:www.twiddletails.com/pattern/PCTute.pdf

A little bit of magic!


Link to Design Adventures
Crocheted Leg Warmers
-- Used with permission

http://idesignadventures.blogspot.ca/2011/10/lewarmers.html


A classy twist to a classic pattern.






Link to Siouxsie Stitches
Reversible Toque
-- Used with permission



http://siouxsiestitches.com/double-knitting-demystified/


A great introduction to double knitting...
and easy too!!

Patterns

Following are some of our knitting patterns; more knitting, crocheting and sewing patterns are available on request. Please feel free to use these patterns for our projects or, if you have a favourite, use that instead. If you wish to share an original pattern, please contact one of the Board members.

NOTE: It is illegal to publish a copyrighted pattern without the permission of the author and/or publisher.

Easy Toque #1
By Handmade Hugs

 #8 mm knitting needles

2 balls sayelle or worsted weight yarn

(I've used a variegated and a plain, two different plains, and two of both plains and variegated. All work well. The funkiest ones are made with leftovers!)

Use both strands together as one yarn.
 

Sizes shown are small, (med), (large), (XL)
                        Or small child, child, woman, man
 
Cast on 40 (50) (60) (80) stitches loosely

Rib K1 P1 for 2  (2 ¼) (2 ½) (3) inches

With right side facing, change to stocking stitch (knit one row, purl one row) until measurement from the beginning is 4 ¼ (4 ½ ) (5) (6) inches long

Start decrease shaping with *K8 K2 tog* across the row. Purl back

Then *K7 K2 tog* across the row. Purl back

Then *K6 K2 tog* across the row. Purl back

Then *K5 K2 tog* across the row. Purl back

Then *K4 K2 tog* across the row. Purl back

Then *K3 K2 tog* across the row. Purl back

Then *K2 K2 tog* across the row. Purl back

Then *K1 K2 tog* across the row.

You can stop decreasing at this point but if you feel the crown should be just a little smaller, then Purl back. *K2 tog* across the row.
 

NB:  For a rounder crown on your toque, (and a shorter distance from rib-edge to crown) start your decrease at *K5 K2 tog* . . .; however, you may find - depending on size - that you finish the row in an uneven pattern (ie: 4 stitches only at the end of the row). Ignore the "orphans" just knit them off and when the pattern eventually falls into line, continue on.

Cut a tail approx. 18 inches long and thread yarn onto the needle then through the remaining stitches. Pull circle tight and thread through again. With small, hidden stitches, sew the seam together all the way through the band. Bury the ends. Trim yarn. Bury any other tails you may have left (from joins etc).

Add pompoms or tassels or bells as desired.

To make a rolled brim hat, skip the rib and just do stocking stitch (K one row, P one row) using the same lengths and decreasing method(s).



Easy Toque #2
By Handmade Hugs

#7 mm knitting needles (If you’d like a slightly tighter stitch, use 6 mm needles. You will end up with a slightly smaller finished product too.)

Sayelle or worsted weight yarn – I usually use Red Heart ® or mix & match leftovers from other projects (ie: two strands of baby sport) to make up the weight

Cast on 70 stitches loosely

Rib K1 P1 for 3 inches


With right side facing, change to stocking stitch (knit one row, purl one row) until the measurement from the beginning is 5 inches long

Start decrease shaping with *K8 K2 tog* across the row. Purl back

Then *K7 K2 tog* across the row. Purl back

Then *K6 K2 tog* across the row. Purl back

Then *K5 K2 tog* across the row. Purl back

Then *K4 K2 tog* across the row. Purl back

Then *K3 K2 tog* across the row. Purl back

Then *K2 K2 tog* across the row. Purl back

Then *K1 K2 tog* across the row. 

 
Cut a tail approx. 18 inches long and thread yarn onto the needle then through the remaining stitches. Pull circle tight and thread through again. With small, hidden stitches, sew the seam together all the way through the band. Bury the ends. Trim yarn. Bury any other tails you may have left (from joins etc).

 To make a rolled brim hat, skip the rib and just do stocking stitch (K one row, P one row) using the same lengths and decreasing method(s).


This is my “work horse” pattern, the one I make most often for charity work. It’s a medium size that will stretch to all but the largest heads and yet will still fit older children and teens. I use every combination of yarn imaginable; one yarn, two finer yarns used as one, even bulky yarns!
Be creative…..use up those bits!

 

SWIRL CAP

 I always thought my mother had originated this pattern but I've seen it in many places over the years; I'm assuming there is no copyright on this pattern.

1 Ball A            Sayelle or
1 Ball B            Poppin Yarn

1 pair needles Size 4 (CDN)

1 set of four needles Size 6 (CDN)

 
Cap                

Cast on 30 stitches with A

Row 1              Inc 1 stitch in first stitch as in K. Purl to end
Row 2              K2 tog. K to end. Mark for top of cap
Repeat twice (6 rows total). Drop A. Do not break yarn.

Row 7              With B inc 1 stitch in first stitch. K to end.
Row 8              K2 tog. P to end
Repeat rows 7 & 8 twice (6 rows total). Drop B. Do not break yarn.
 
Row 13            With A, inc 1 stitch in first stitch. K to end.
Repeat rows 2 – 13 six times. (7 stripes each of A and B)


To continue on set of four needles:
           Join the two ends into a circle

To continue on paired needles:
              Cast off work.

Crown             With wrong side facing, with A, pick up and knit 3 st at the end of each stripe across the top (42 stitches)

Row 1              (K2 tog) to end (21 stitches)
Row 2              K (if you want crown to be smooth, P this row)
Row 3              (K1 then K2 tog) to end (14 stitches)

Break yarn leaving enough (18 – 20 inches) to sew cap together. Thread yarn onto a bodkin and thread through remaining stitches twice. Pull tight and secure.
 
NB: If yarn A is too high a contrast to B, consider breaking yarn at 8 – 10 inches and securing off. Sew remaining seam, blind stitch with a complementary colour to rib then switch again to rib colour.
 
Do not sew cap together at this point if working on two needles. If working on four needles, blind stitch the join to the opposite edge of the work.
 

Ribbed Band With A, pick up and knit 6 st at the end of each stripe (84 stitches)
Row 1  K1 P1. Continue until band is at least 4” wide

If working with two needles, blind stitch join seam from right side of work. When you get to the ribbing, switch to a matching yarn (if necessary) and continue join from the wrong side as once the rib is turned back, the wrong side will become the right side.
 

This is another “work horse” pattern.  It’s a medium size, almost a "one size fits all".
 I've even made it with every stripe a different colour!


 
FINGERLESS MITTS
by Handmade Hugs

Worsted weight yarn
6 mm needles
 
Cast on 30 stitches

Work in rib (K1, P1) for 6 rows, leaving an 8-10 inch tail

Work in stocking stitch (k a row, purl back) for approx 20 rows or 5 inches (approx 6 inches from beginning). If you would like a longer mitt, simply add rows until the desired length is reached.

Work in rib (K1, P1) for 12 rows

Cast off. Cut an 18" tail.


Forming a tube and starting at the top edge, sew edges together as flat as possible for about 2 inches. Tie off and weave in the end. Go to the opposite end and, using the 18" tail, sew the edges together, continuing up the join to approx 1 1/2 inches from the other join (this will be the thumb hole). Secure the last stitch and weave in the end of the tail.

Trim yarn to finish.

Make another mitt identically. Tie the pair together with a wrap of contrasting yarn.


NOTE: You might find it easier to knit these two at a time, especially if you're changing colours. Use two balls simultaneously and "do unto one what you do unto the other".




EXTRA LARGE FINGERLESS MITTS

by Handmade Hugs



Worsted weight yarn
7mm needles

Cast on 40 stitches, leaving an 8-10" tail

Work in rib (K1, P1) for 8 rows (mitt top)

Work in stocking stitch (k a row, purl back) for 7 to 8 inches from beginning

Work in rib (K1, P1) for 12 rows

Cast off. Cut an 18" tail.

Forming a tube and starting at the top edge, sew edges together as flat as possible for about 2 inches. Tie off and weave in the end. Go to the opposite end and, using the 18" tail, sew the edges together, continuing up the join to approx 1 1/2 inches from the other join (this will be the thumb hole). Secure the last stitch and weave in the end of the tail. Trim yarn to finish.

Make another mitt identically. Tie the pair together with a wrap of contrasting yarn.

NOTE: You might find it easier to knit these two at a time, especially if you're changing colours. Use two balls simultaneously and "do unto one what you do unto the other".




Simple Leg Warmers

Handmade Hugs

 

Sized to fit teens or adults with “standard” calves; to increase diameter, increase number of stitches to a number which, when divided by 2, leaves an even number, ie:  40 stitches will work (divided by 2 is 20) but 42 will not (divided by 2 is 21). You need the even number to have the rib work evenly.


 

6 mm needles (for looser stitching or slightly larger sizes, change needles to 7 or 8 mm)

Worsted weight yarn


 

Style One - Classic

Cast on 40 stitches loosely

K2 P2 to 2”

Stocking stitch (knit one row, purl one row) for 12” more (total 14”)

K2 P2 for 2” more (total 16”)



 

Style Two - Ribbed

Cast on 40 stitches loosely

K2 P2 every row to 16”




 

Style Three - Cable

Cast on 40 stitches loosely

Ribbing

K2 P2 for 8 rows (approx. 1 ½”)

 

Shank

Pattern                

Row 1 - K 15 stitches, P2 (Cable 6), P2, K 15 stitches

Row 2, 4, 6, 8 – P15, K2, P6, K2, P15

Row 3, 5, 7 – K15, P2, K6, P2, K15


Cable 6

P2, slide next 3 onto cable needle, pull to front of work, knit next three stitches from main needle then knit the three from the cable needle, P2

 

Continue shank in pattern to desired length, less 1 ½”

Ribbing

K2 P2 for 8 rows (approx. 1 ½”)

** Sample is three colours of three cables each. Finished, approx. 17” with nine cable patterns **

 

All Styles

Cast off in pattern (rib) loosely

Sew long edges closed, using an invisible, flat seam

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